Ghost Safari – Brora, Port Ellen

Brora and Port Ellen were among the many casualties of the deadly year of 1983, within the period of whisky-bust in the 1980s. In the last couple of decades, they became iconic and coveted among enthusiast (and traders), as mature casks of the old stock came into circulation. In the present whisky boom, both distilleries, owned by Diageo, have reopened after extensive renovations, so technically they are ghost distilleries no more. Brora, the sister distillery of Clynelish, has been active again since 2021 and Port Ellen reopened in 2024. It seems much care is being taken to replicate the original whisky character in both cases; Brora’s old stills will be taken back in use, and new washbacks have been made with reference to old drawings. The derelict Port Ellen, equipment gone, has been reimagined from old drawings. How well will they succeed in resurrecting the famed character of the old whisky? We’ll see in a decade or two, by which time perhaps the boom has again turned to bust…

But right now, I, for the very first time of my life, will get to experience the most hyped distilleries in all of Scotch. I’ll try my best to keep the hype from distorting my perceptions.

๐ŸŒ

Scotch single malt

๐Ÿชต

refill American oak hogsheads

๐Ÿ”†

no info

๐Ÿ’ฒ

rare at auction; ~โ‚ฌ1700

๐Ÿ”—

from a 2cl sample bottle

๐Ÿ—’๏ธ Tasting notes


Nosing

First an assortment of fruits, tropical and otherwise (clementines, yellow apples and pears, lemon, plum). At the same time, many other impressions: waxiness โ€” I am of coursed primed to look for it, but it is indeed there, accompanied by light smoke; there’s cookies and cream (clotted cream, cheesecake, biscuits, subtle vanilla); and abundance of subtle floral and grassy notes. All very well integrated with old oak notes that gives a drier impression.

Sipping

The taste is oily, briny, sweet โ€” but also quite drying. Rich fruit syrup, grilled overripe pineapple, and surprisingly heavy peat (for my expectations) that’s earthy, phenolic, funky. Extremely long finish, fruity-smoky fading into earthy, with dried mulberries.

๐Ÿ’ญ Comments


Amazing whisky. The nose is really interesting and characterful. The palate is a flavour bomb, but not in the trivial way of a cask coating. I would say it’s on the tannic side, an impression perhaps amplified by the peat as well – not to a point that it detracts from the overall experience. For a heavily peated dram, I cannot spontaneously think of a better one I’ve had, actually. Although, I can see the rightly aged Bowmore or Laphroaig being a contender. As for value, I’ve yet to taste a whisky that leaves the competition so far behind that paying more than a few hundred euros makes any sense for non-independently wealthy.


Deliciousness
Fun factor
Value for money
Final say

โšซโšซ๐ŸŸข
โšซโšซ๐ŸŸข
๐Ÿ”ดโšซโšซ
A sublime peat beast

Personal favourite โค๏ธ


๐ŸŒ

Scotch single malt

๐Ÿชต

refill American & European oak

๐Ÿ”†

no info

๐Ÿ’ฒ

rare at auction; ~2000โ‚ฌ

๐Ÿ”—

from a 2cl sample bottle

๐Ÿ—’๏ธ Tasting notes


Nosing

The kinship with the 34yo is clear on the nose, so let me emphasize some differences: the fruits notes are somewhat richer here, the pear being especially prominent here (piggelin ice cream), and I also noticing some peach, strawberry, and sultanas. A coastal impression (salt, mineral) too, that I get less with the prior sample. Less of the cream and vanilla notes here.

Sipping

very oily, medium sweet and salty again, with and a pinch of bitterness; a very full and chewy taste experience. Rich ripe and dried fruits (mangoes, sultanas, coconut), liquorice, then the peat rolls in more like a fine smokescreen, and I notice tobacco, leather, some ash. Medium-long finish, nutty, fruity, and a hint of smoke.

๐Ÿ’ญ Comments


I prefer this mellower level of peat that leaves room for the other elements to shine than the more confrontational peat of the 34yo. Actually, this could be the most full-ended whisky I ever had, exquisitely balancing so many elements. It is the best whisky I ever had? It’s up there, but in an important sense no. To a significant extent, the occasion makes the whisky, as in the atmosphere and people surrounding you when you enjoy it, and the quirkiness or simple deliciousness of the whisky that pops out at you in a moment where you were not expecting or anticipating it. I always make my tastings at home a special occasion, but it can’t quite touch those magical moments where the whisky itself is only half the story.


Deliciousness
Fun factor
Value for money
Final say

โšซโšซ๐ŸŸข
โšซโšซ๐ŸŸข
๐Ÿ”ดโšซโšซ
Just legendary

Personal favourite โค๏ธ


๐ŸŒ

Scotch single malt

๐Ÿชต

no info

๐Ÿ”†

unchillfiltered & natural color

๐Ÿ’ฒ

~โ‚ฌ600 at auction

๐Ÿ”—

whiskybase (one of several sister casks)

from a 2cl sample bottle

๐Ÿ—’๏ธ Tasting notes


Nosing

very clearly peaty, quite minerally (clay, chalk), smoked ham, burning candle, earthy funk as well (hay, farmyard), but let’s not forget the fresh citrus (charred lemon). Throw in some toasted hazelnuts too.

Sipping: a little sweet and quite salty, the peat blooms forth in a dynamic way bringing salty, smoked bacon, tobacco, a dash of pepper, then turns ashier. Some dried fruits and nuts in the background.

๐Ÿ’ญ Comments


The nose is great, but not extraordinary. The palate has a very beautiful peat, though; for the peat fan this could maybe be a reference profile. But overall, I’m not seeing here a level of quality that one couldn’t find in a contemporary bottle with less nostalgia and hype.


Deliciousness
Fun factor
Value for money
Final say

โšซ๐ŸŸก๐ŸŸข
โšซโšซ๐ŸŸข
๐Ÿ”ดโšซโšซ
It’s fine. But without hype and nostalgia, only goes so far.


That Brora would satisfy me was no surprise, given my love of Clynelish. But it would be somewhat unfair to proclaim Brora as a favourite distillery now, because I’ve very rarely sampled such old whisky from any other malt distillery. My lukewarm position toward Port Ellen is not so surprising either, given that I appreciate Islay whisky but don’t geek out over it as many do. When visiting Islay distillrey Kilchoman, we had a chat with its founder, Anthony Wills. He said that they, for some special occasion, had bought a โ‚ฌ4000 bottle of old really Port Ellen to see what the hype was about โ€” and were not terribly impressed.

Published by

3 responses to “Ghost Safari – Brora, Port Ellen”

  1. […] ๐ŸŸข tried & reviewed (#230-231) […]

    Like

  2. […] The process of exclusion leads me to say this is the Brora: no detectable peat, ruling out the Islays, and not funky enough to be Springbank. It’s really nice and clearly an old whisky, but not like my first Broras. […]

    Like

Leave a comment