I have been trying a lot of newbie distilleries recently (Newbies Pt I, II, III) with the aim of getting through all of them eventually — a task that will take years for the simple fact that new distilleries still keep popping up like malty mushrooms in the ground! Of the 28 distilleries founded in the 2000s that have made their first official release, I think I have now tried all but three (Lagg, Ballindaloch, Arndahoe), and for two of them I already have samples ready.
Then the completionist in me started wondering: How far am I from having tried every Scotch single malt distillery? There are 95 operational pre-2000s-founded distilleries, and I am quite certain I have tried all of them in one form or another.
So the Achievement is beckoning!
But what about closed distilleries? Surely I will never try the original Longrow that closed in 1896. But we can put a threshold at distilleries closing after 1975, because it seems reasonable one could get a sample of those. Ladyburn and Killyloch closed in 1975, before then was Ardgowan in 1952 (now set to reopen), and before then Glengilp in 1937. So then I could say I’ve tried every distillery producing whisky in the last 70 years!
My progress on the eligible ghost distilleries is highlighted in green:
Caperdonich (Speyside) †2002 — probably at some point?
Imperial (Speyside) †1998 — tried and reviewed several times, and I own two bottles
Pittyvaich (Speyside) †1993
Rosebank (Lowland) †1993 — tried and reviewed
Littlemill (Lowland) †1992 — tried and reviewed
Lochside (Highland) †1992
Inverleven (Lowland) †1991
Coleburn (Speyside) †1985
Convalmore (Speyside) †1985
Glenesk (Highland) †1985 — tried in a Tokyo bar
Glenflagler (Lowland) †1985
Glenury (Highland) †1985
Millburn (Highland) †1985
Banff (Speyside) †1983 — tried and reviewed
Brora (Highland) †1983 (technically now reopened)
Dallas Dhu (Speyside) †1983 — tried a stale sample
Glen Albyn (Highland) †1983
Glenlochy (Highland) †1983
Glen Mhor (Highland) †1983 — tried and reviewed
Glenugie (Highland) †1983
North Port (Highland) †1983
Port Ellen (Islay) †1983
St. Magdalene (Lowland) †1983
Ben Wyvis (Highland) †1977
Kinclaith (Lowland) †1976
Killyloch (Lowland) †1975
There’s a ways to go. A very expensive ways, too boot 😬
Today I’ll be making a bit of progress on the list…
Glenesk | 12yo 1980s | 40% | Wm. Sanderson
5cl sample bottle
⚡Experience
Fresh, fruity, sweet nose. Red apples, prunes, digestive biscuit, vanilla. On closer inspection, more acidity and yeast, like a craft cider. Subtler notes of candlewax and ginger.
A little thin in mouthfeel, medium sweet, and mild but flavourful: apple juice, shortbread, chocolate, very malty, with spices (clove, coriander seed). Gets a bit drying, with some oak tannins.
Mild smoke note and herbal touch appears in the finish.
💡Thoughts
This is actually quite good. Despite the 40% abv there is some complexity here. The sherry influence is very tempered, which I appreciate compared to modern bottlings which tend to be all or nothing on the sherry notes. For a beginning drinker it may be a little too odd, but for me it works.
Tasty
Fun
Value
Overall
⚫🟡⚫
⚫🟡🟢
🔴⚫⚫
Worth trying ✔️
St. Magdalene “Centenary Reserve” | 15yo (1980) | 40% | Gordon & MacPhail
5cl sample bottle
⚡Experience
Winey and nutty nose, a little stale. Orange, cinnamon, sour cherries, toasted hazelnut, ginger beer, hint of brie and broiled meat.
Sweetish, quite thin. Mild sherry notes, some spices and lychee.
💡Thoughts
Not bad, nothing very special or exciting. I feel one could go on looking for subtle “old school” aromas here, but it’s a bit thinned out.
Tasty
Fun
Value
Overall
⚫🟡⚫
⚫🟡⚫
🔴⚫⚫
Worth trying ✔️
Cover image credit Historic Environment Scotland
DuckDrams 
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