Tamdhu (pronounced Tam-DOO) is one of those Speyside distilleries that has mostly fallen under the radar for me. Last time I can recall having it (well, the only time, really), was when someone brought the 12yo along for a Highland whisky trip in 2019. I remember nought of the taste, but I do remember the appearance of the bottle – and I’m not a huge fan. Elegant or tacky? You decide:
According to the Malt Whisky Yearbook, since the distillery swapped hands about 10 years ago, its output has been turned towards single malt production rather than being used as a blend component (previously in Famous Grouse and Cutty Sark). All the casks used for single malt are either first or second-fill oloroso sherry casks, mainly from European oak. No cheap casks finishes here, no! Beside the tacky bottle design, which I ashamedly admit might’ve biased me against its contents, the distillery’s membership in the sherried Speysiders club (not my top team these days) is another reason I might’ve passed over Tamdhu. But have I been too hasty to judge?
At the whisky bar in Ardnahoe distillery on Islay, whisky-mate ‘Panda’ put a Glencairn glass under my nose exclaiming “So waxy!” – a 20yo Tamdhu bottled by Hunter Laing, the independent bottlers who built Ardnahoe. And for only £5 a dram! Being designated driver that day, I purchased two takeaway Tamdhu drops: this one, and a 10yo for £3.50.
Hunter Laing (HL) is a company split off from the Douglas Laing & Co independent bottler after the two sons of the founder decided to part ways. Adding to the name confusion, there’s also Langside distillers, somehow related to HL and/or DL. Mostly stemming from a lack of familiarity with the Laing gang, I’ve not counted them among the foremost independent bottlers, but this may well be in error.
As I try tonight’s two drams, I realize they are playing in totally different leagues, and carrying almost no resemblance to one another, so I have decided to present them as two separate reviews, rather than in comparative review, although I tried them side-by-side.
Single malt whisky review
Tamdhu 10yo (2007/2018) @46% – Hunter Laing (Hepburn’s Choice)
Single cask • Non-chillfiltered • Natural Color
First impression on the nose is predominantly fruity and floral, quite fresh. Citrus (mandarin) and peach. The floral aspect grows with time in the glass, becoming almost soapy. Palate: The texture is light, the tastes (slightly sweet and bitter) are well-enough balanced, but where are the flavours? I get some hint of melon, but there’s not much going on here. A shame, as with a bit more flavour this could’ve been quite decent.
Qualities: 🎖️(integrity bottling)💤(boring)
My enjoyment: ✔️(okay)
My WB score: 80
Single malt whisky review
Tamdhu 20yo (1998/2020) @50.0% – Hunter Laing (The Old Malt Cask)
Single cask • Non-chillfiltered • Natural Coluor
Nose: Indeed, waxy! Orange zest, pancakes and syrup, prunes, vanilla and oak. Some leather and dust in there too. Elegant, well-aged sherry profile that doesn’t shove a Christmas cake down your throat. With water and time in the glass there is definitely a pineapple note appearing. Palate: oily mouthfeel, with umami, sweetness, and bitterness in perfect balance. The alcohol is a bit much neat, but some water rounds it off. Long, satisfying finish. Overall, very subtle and elegant. If I had to hold something against it, it would be a lack of distinctiveness, but that is easily forgiven.
Qualities: 🧠(mature complexity)🎖️(integrity bottling)🍷(sherried)
My enjoyment: ⭐(great)
My WB score: WB:88
Beep-beep! Tamdhu is back on the radar. I’ve sampled two single casks here, which may or may not be representative of the distillery’s typical profile. Perhaps I should just get an official bottling? If only I can overcome my aversion to the bottle design…
[Addendum 2023-05-15: after revamping my system of marks, I’ve gone back and updated the symbols]
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