Tasting blindly is so revealing and so much fun, as I learned especially from the whisky calendar tastings. And in WOLS we always did blind tastings, though on a known theme and in the good company of others and on a time budget, a super carful analysis of the taste experience was not really the priority.
Being still far from Christmas, and without a whisky club to select secret drams for me, how can I get the blind booze imbibement I beseech when I can’t help but know what samples I am buying myself? Well, sometimes the solution to a problem is with brute force. I have now bought so many samples, spaced out over sufficient time, that I can’t remember what I have in my cupboard really. So covering up the labels of a bunch of samples that don’t beg to be included in a horizontal tasting theme I have created a “black box” to draw semi-random samples from! Sure, biased towards what I considered worth spending money on, but that’s not so bad actually 😎.
My plan is to review a sample from the black box every now an then, and accumulate a few into a blog post on regular basis. Here’s the first batch!
Benrinnes | 14yo (2009) | 55.5% | The Whisky cellar
from a 5cl sample bottle tasted blindly
🗒️Tasting notes
A compote of fruits (zesty orange and lime, and pear, plum, and pineapple) with classic, non-overbearing oloroso sherry notes and spices (cinnamon). A little grassy, and with some meadow flowers.
Juicy and chewy, with a well balanced sweetness from honey, lots of ripe fruits and berries (strawberries, black berries). Toss in some buttery croissaints too. Then there is a meaty, even smoky note that asserts itself after a few seconds. Some tobacco vibes.
Long juicy finish.
💭Reflections
Before reveal: the nose is pleasant, but not so complex. The big show is on the wonderful and dynamic palate. It’s simple but effective. This feels to be at a good drinking strength, neither too high or low. Definitely Oloroso sherry. I’m thinking a yesteryear bottling of some characterful Speyside distillate, like Benrinnes or even Craigellachie (although I know there’s none of the latter is not in stash), in the range of 12yo, plus/minus.
After reveal: Hah, that’s fun! Nailed the distillery. Then, yes it’s a sherry cask but PX not oloroso. Maybe I should have picked up on the sweetness, whereas oloroso has dryer even more sour notes? “A good drinking strength” at 55.5% points to a very well integrated alcohol, indeed. I thought this might be a yesteryear bottling, but no; points to a very judicious application of the the sherry finish.
I would have considered buying a bottle if the price was a bit lower. But that still means a great deal, since most drams I wouldn’t want to drink a bottle of regardless of price given the better experiences one could have.
Deliciousness
Fun factor
Value for money
Verdict
⚫⚫🟢
⚫🟡🟢
⚫🟡⚫
A whisky made for “hygge” without overanalysis
Torabhaig | NAS (bott. 2023) | 61.1% | Official

🌐
Scotch single malt
🪵
first-fill bourbon + refill barrel
🔆
unchillfiltered & natural color
🪙
€70
from a 5cl sample bottle tasted blindly
🗒️ Tasting notes
In essence, citrus, sea breeze, and confectionary: charred lemons, chalk, fresh scallops, a tang of seaweed, a touch of peat but more so bonfire smoke, lemongrass, thyme and sage, vanilla and shortbread.
A sweet, smoky, salty, savoury palate: very much miso ramen. Some green apples, sultanas, and hickory, besides.
Medium finish, with the sultanas and smoke lingering.
💭 Comments
Before reveal: knowing there’s rather little Islay in the black box this has to be Port Askaig 17. Drinking strength, ex-bourbon, 10yo+ is very obvious. There’s nothing bad here; it’s an enjoyable Caol Ila (most likely) with a good balance of tastes. But it’s not a standout, somehow. I think I prefer either a crisper expression, or something that takes a more funky turn.
After reveal: Ouff! That’s a blow to my confidences. I had completely forgot I had this peaty Torabhaig in the mix. How much is my perception clouded by thinking it must be Port Askaig? Probably some, but let’s compare with my review (not blind) of Torabhaig inaugural release: “Nose: Sea spray, hickory smoke, crab sticks, lemon and green apples. Toast with honey and chevré on the palate; earthy peat, barely sugar, and lemon sherbet.” There’s good overlap.
Embarrassing to have called 61.1% drinking strength… That’s definitely from being convinced it must be Port Askaig at 46.8%, but honestly it’s a perfectly drinkable dram neat. Probably that ABV is giving a boost to the perception of depth and maturity.
Fun learning!
Deliciousness
Fun factor
Value for money
Verdict
⚫🟡⚫
⚫🟡⚫
⚫🟡⚫
A nice miso (d)ramen
Wolfburn | 10yo | 46% | Official
from a 5cl sample bottle tasted blindly
🗒️ Tasting notes
Refreshing nose with assorted ripe fruits (mango, peach, red apples) and citrus (particularly lime), some minerality (beach pebbles, dunnage) beside fresh sourdough bread, caramel, and subtle wood. Hints of cocoa nibs and flowers. On the palate, fruity with a balanced sweetness, and rather malty. A rapid onset of spicy, gingery, and almost prickly sensations. Juicy oak and gooseberries in the finish.
💭 Comments
Before reveal: The nose is really in my style, and without being very complex is still very enticing. The spiciness on the palate though is where this one drops the ball. On to guessing the specs: Ex-bourbon maturation, but I’d not exclude there being a marriage with some sherry casks. Quite hard to tell the abv, because of the spiciness which can misread as alcohol, but I’ll guess here a low 43 or 46. No signs of old age, so 10ish seems probable. Lowland/Speyside character. Not a unique distillery character showing, but I’d throw out Bladnoch as a guess (thought I know that’s not in the black box).
After reveal: So this came as a surprise. Especially the “sherry casks” descriptor, but that’s due to an overexposure to all the sherry bombs. In fact I think the subtle influence of refill sherry or mix of bourbon and sherry casks is a great thing, like in the Balcomie. But where is that spiciness coming from? Expecting more from Wolfburn.
Deliciousness
Fun factor
Value for money
Verdict
⚫🟡⚫
⚫🟡⚫
⚫🟡⚫
A solid nose, let down by a spicy palate
Tullibardine | 9yo (2013) | 52.4% | Duncan Taylor
from a 5cl sample bottle tasted blindly
🗒️ Tasting notes
Nosing: Somewhat closed nose, but obvious sherry notes (butterscotch, raisin, banana bread), a bit of wood, a faraway smoke trail, and a slightly salty breeze.
Sipping: Sweet yet drying mouthfeel, feeling of a high ABV but not boozy neat. Generic sherry flavours. Try some water to open up. Orange, sherry, shortbread. There’s a really malty base to carry the cask, but no particular distillate-driven flavours are obvious. More red berries in the finish.
💭 Comments
Before reveal: This is obviously a very young whisky in a sherry cask, so likely one of the newbie distilleries — but which one? Who could say when there’s sherry cask and not much else. The banana note makes me think of Kingsbarns, but I’d rather guess Ben Wyvis. Oloroso cask rather than PX, less than 5yo, and close to 60% abv.
After reveal: Huh. What a failure! For my powers of discernment, yes perhaps, but also for the bottling: Tullibardine is usually so lovely and distinct, and here it’s just very sherry-generic. Perhaps because of the octave, which is the smallest cask size. Now knowing it’s Tulli, and giving it more time, I can bring myself to find floral aspects to the nose, and coconut sunscreen, lime… Priming is powerful, both thinking a whisky is something, and thinking it isn’t.
This was exclusively bottled for Falke Exklusive & Brühler Whiskyhaus.
Deliciousness
Fun factor
Value for money
Verdict
⚫🟡⚫
🔴🟡⚫
🔴🟡⚫
*Ring* Hello? Yes, this is sherry speaking.





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