“Isn’t particularly of any interest… let’s move on.” So said Ralfy recently of Macduff in his overview of Scotch malt distilleries A-Z on his Patreon channel.
To the contrary, in the Bad Homburg whisky festival 2023 I tried two Macduffs that were both were really interesting. One was relatively young but had a very distinguished and unusual blueberry note. I almost bought a bottle. The other had a high age statement, heavy sherry cask, and a sulphury-rubbery intensity that strangely enough didn’t put me off, but fascinated me. So I am quite keen to dive deeper into this distillery.
Macduff is a Dewar’s-owned distillery, with about a third of production channelled to the official single malt under the name The Deveron.
Incidentally, “duff” is a multifaceted word in English. According to the Cambridge dictionary it means “bad, not useful, or not working” or “a person’s bottom” or “to steal farm animals by changing the brand (= owner’s mark) on them, or to steal goods by changing their appearance”. Let’s hope tonight’s samples of Macduff put a more agreeable connation to duff…
Macduff | 13yo (2009) | 47.5% | Càrn Mòr
5cl sample bottle
⚡Experience
The first and strongest impression is a mix of ripe fruits (apples, pears, grapes) and citrus, then oaky spices (cinnamon, wood) on a bready/malty foundation. Some more fleeting aromas of wet flour, cheese, eucalyptus.
Full-bodied but not oily, on the sweeter and savoury side, with a saltiness and bit of woody astringency – a variety of tastes. Flavourwise, there’s salted caramel, banana, malt, red fruits (dried cranberries), and oloroso sherry.
A little rubber and smoke in the finish, but mostly sherry.
💡Thoughts
A medium-strong sherry profile carried well by a substantial spirit. Yummy, but not very memorable, perhaps lacking some integration of the alcohol.
Rewarding
✔️
Macduff | 14yo (2009) | 58.1% | Gordon & MacPhail
5cl sample bottle
⚡Experience
Strong alcohol on the nose neat, the aromas are on the shy side. Fruity and green (papaya, sugar cane juicy), citrus (grapefruit), with some buttered popcorn.
Whoof! Strong alcohol here, definitely needs water. Sweetish, candy floss, lemon drops, on a malty base.
💡Thoughts
Nothing bad here (except the booziness), but it’s really quite anaemic. Bit surprising, given that it’s the GM Connoiseur’s range which tends to be very competent. Official tasting notes has vanilla pods, milk chocolate, green apple, banana, sherbet, black pepper, citrus, charred oak.
Rewarding
✔️
Macduff | 17yo (2006) | 54.4% | Cadenhead’s
🌐
Scotch single malt
🪵
bourbon barrel
🔆
unchillfiltered & natural color
💲
£31 (20cl) / £85 (70cl)
20cl sample bottle
⚡Experience
Subtle nose, flowery and lightly woodsy and green. Some beeswax and citrus, whiff of vanilla.
Palate a wee sweet, savoury; some not too ripe banana, maltiness.
💡Thoughts
Really similar to the previous one, and although there is a good weight to the spirit, it’s lacking in interesting flavours. Probably needs a good sherry cask.
Rewarding
✔️
Quite disappointing to be honest. Not bad, just not making much of an impression. Makes me think again that I should expand my grading system, since I’m finding here a clear lower end of “rewarding”.
Taking stock of the positives, Macduff clearly has a rather weighty spirit and nothing untoward. The first Oloroso matured dram was best. Remains to be seen if the bourbony 17yo can grow on me since I have a Cadenhead’s 20cl bottle. I’d look for more sherry matured options in the future.
DuckDrams 
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