[Title image from dramscotland]
£1200 for a 50cl bottle of 3yo whisky! That’s what you’d be paying at auction for a bottle of Dornoch distillery’s first release a couple of years ago. Dornoch distillery is the passion project of the Thompson brothers, Phil and Simon, famous for their whisky bar at Dornoch Castle Hotel, and for running an outstanding independent bottling operation. With careful attention to yeast and barley variety, and using long fermentation times and un-rushed distillation, they are aiming for an old-school style of whisky inspired by bottles from the 40s to 70s. Many whisky geeks are excited.
As part of a WOLS whisky trip, I went to the Dornoch bar where I remember having an outstanding Càrn Mòr-bottled Linkwood, among the best whiskies I’ve had. Back then I had no idea of who the Thompson brothers were. I’ve bought quite few of Thompson Bros. bottlings in the years since (although nowhere near as many as my pal Andy), but the only one I’ve actually opened was the great Linkwood reviewed here. I’ve been keeping an eye on Dornoch distillery in recent times, but never had a reasonable chance to get my hands on a bottle.
Luckily, I found some samples. One I bought from Hop/Scotch for £15 (25ml), the other I bought at Limburg whisky fair for €8 and poured into a 2cl sample bottle. Andy provided me with a sample of new make. So, let’s see what the hype is all about.
Dornoch new make spirit
Type: New make spirit
Bottled by: Official
ABV: 60%
Unchillfiltered / Nat. Colour: Yes
Review sample: 3cl from my pal Andy
Experience ⚡
Yes, this has the honied smell of new make; also citrus (pomelo, grapefruit) and other fruits (water melon), as well as yeasty, slightly earthy notes (sourdough bread, mushroom). Strong alcohol on the palate, but not too nippy despite the 60%. The taste is creamy and malty, with some sweetness in the finish.
Thoughts 💡
I’m no connoisseur of new make, but this to me is a very promising starting point on the way to whisky.
Dornoch 4yo (Cask #83)
Type: Single malt / Single cask
Bottled by: Official
Age / Vintage: 4yo / 2018
ABV: 55.32%
Cask type: 1st-fill ex-bourbon octave
Unchillfiltered / Nat. Colour: <text>
Typical price: €100 / 50cl (RRP)
WhiskyBase ID: WB219907
Review sample: 2cl from Thompson Bros. at Limburg whisky fair
Experience ⚡
Immediate impression on the nose is sour fruits and citrus (orange) and then something dusty-dunnage-oaky-yeasty. A wax note is certainly there, and a subtle floral note as well (lavender?). In the mouth the whisky is full-bodied, honied and fruity, and just a tad bitter (in a nice way). Water and time in the glass brings enhanced earthiness.
Thoughts 💡
Not all too dissimilar from a Bladnoch on the nose, with perhaps a little too much wood (could be the octave). But at 4yo it’s already substantial and enjoyable.
Great Quality ⭐
Dornoch 5yo (Cask #14)
Type: Single malt / Single cask
Bottled by: Official
Age / Vintage: 5yo / 2017
ABV: 58.4%
Cask type: 1st-fill ex-bourbon octave
Unchillfiltered / Nat. Colour: Yes
Typical price: €100 / 50cl (RRP)
WhiskyBase ID: WB228158
Review sample: 25ml bought from Hop/Scotch
Experience ⚡
Intense nose of toasted almond, marzipan, and estery fruit notes; also oak and vanilla; Swedish punch liqueur. The taste is quite drying (tannic) yet simultaneously sweet and savoury; flavours of Chinese dumplings and deep fried banana; more vanilla in the finish.
Thoughts 💡
Unusually intense nose, but perhaps a bit overexuberant. The overall impression is of a tasty but somewhat strange dram.
Great Quality ⭐
I see lots of potential here. This young whisky is already full of character and flavour, more than many 10+yo malts. However, I think we need too see some more conventional casks (not octaves) and a bit more maturation before this whisky really shines. Sadly, I anticipate that bottles of Dornoch will remain prohibitively rare and expensive for us common whisky geeks for yet another decade.
DuckDrams 
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